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Since its North American debut in California over two decades ago, the chain of restaurants has been concentrated exclusively on the West Coast. Last month in Glendale, Din Tai Fung relocated from the Americana at Brand to the Galleria, occupying a behemoth 11,443-square-foot space. A Downtown Disney location is planned for sometime next year, and most notably, the company recently signed a 15-year lease to open in New York, which will mark the first East Coast location in its portfolio. The natural sweetness of crab perfectly complements juicy pork in our Crab & Kurobuta Pork Xiao Long Bao. The wait was especially long on the weekends, as folks from all over Greater Los Angeles made the trek just for the papery-thin dumplings.
Noodles
But while it is a specialty of eastern China, it truly wasn’t until Din Tai Fung came along that it became a worldwide phenomenon. Eventually, both the Yang brothers went on to get degrees in hospitality administration at Cornell University, and today spearhead the multimillion-dollar dumpling empire’s outposts in America. From a very young age, Aaron and Albert were shown the ins and outs of the family business. Though they were raised in Los Angeles, they would visit Taiwan often, and would spend their vacation hanging out at their grandfather’s restaurant. The chefs would pinch swans out of the dough for them and whisk them around the city.
The perfect pairing of land and sea.
“Our personalities are a bit different, but it’s great for the business because we just split duties,” says Albert. The chain is steadily conquering America, thanks to the efforts of the founding family’s next generation.
Locations
It’s this attention to detail that has ensured Din Tai Fung’s reign as one of the most successful dumpling chains in the world. The family owned business and they make an effort to serve quality food, Fresh and quality meat and ingredients, Great service, handmade ,authentic . The company was founded by Aaron and Albert’s grandfather, Yang Bing-Yi, a Chinese immigrant who moved to Taiwan in his 20s during the Chinese Civil War in 1927. Originally a nondescript cooking oil store in Taipei, the shop transitioned into an eatery when Yang hired a Shanghai-born chef and started selling soup dumplings. Xiao long bao, or soup dumpling, hails from the greater Shanghai region in China and according to Chinese lore, was invented sometime between the 18th and 19th century. A bundle of gently seasoned pork and broth, it reflects the light and delicate sensibilities of the region’s cuisine.
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Din Tai Fung has churned out consistently popular batches of soup dumplings for more than 50 years. With 170 locations in over a dozen countries, the Taiwanese chain commands daily long lines, attracting customers mesmerized by the glassed-in kitchen where parcels of dough and meat are meticulously shaped and assembled in real time. It’s an operation that requires the manpower of roughly 30 chefs on rotation, all of whom are required to master the art of the perfect fold.
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“We were just little babies and they would take us around on their motorcycles,” Albert recalls. Both vice presidents at Din Tai Fung USA, they are charged with overseeing the Taiwanese dumpling chain’s presence in the American market. “The more high-profile, the more high-foot-traffic locations there are, the more we’re able to share our food and culture,” says Albert. For brothers Aaron and Albert Yang, it took them twice as long to get it right.
Welcome To Din Ding Dumpling House
“It took us at least six months to a year to perfect the craft and finally be able to make some dumplings that could be sold,“ Albert says. “Our entry-level hourly positions start at $20 an hour and the managers start at $100,000 annually,” Albert says. And whereas aspiring Din Tai Fung chefs in Taiwan pick up the trade by shadowing a senior chef, incoming dumpling masters in the United States are instead enrolled in a training program. Snagging a seat was consistently difficult, so my mom would call in ahead of time on the weekdays and pick up a takeout order of dumplings for my brother and me to enjoy as an after-school snack. “We were running credit cards when we could barely even see over the counter,” Aaron says. By the seventh grade, they were learning how to fold the dumplings themselves.
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